Monday, December 10, 2012

Holidaze...

Presently, it's 12:18pm...I'm sitting at my desk in the English Department Teacher's room...I'm listening to the İstikal Marş (the national anthem of Turkey) which is rather abnormalI as it's only played in the mornings before class...now, the March has transformed into Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas...and again the March and now Jingle Bells...I think they're having some technical difficulties..

 
 
Listening to this odd mix of patriotism and capitalism made me think about Christmas...today we put up our department Christmas tree - complete with tinsel, balls and lights!  Does anyone else think that it's slightly odd in a Muslim country??  Not so much it seems.  Although the Turkish people do not celebrate Christmas, they do celebrate the New Year like most other countries.  They have blended Western Christmas traditions with their own cultural New Year's traditions.  So, most every house will have a Christmas tree and some Santa Claus' hanging around!  Christmas music plays in the mall and stores around town - even in our English department.  Christmas lights, wreaths, and Santas decorate the street corners, building facades and windows.  On Saturday I was at Ankamall (the biggest shopping centre in Ankara - think bigger than the Eaton Centre or Square One,), and many of the home stores had Christmas angels, stars, reindeer, trees, gingerbread men, and anything else you can think of in relation to a Western style Christmas! Starbucks sells their Christmas Blend coffee, Levi's and H&M have Christmas themed sweaters, Pizza Pizza has a Christmas 2-for-1 special...you name it, it's here! 
 
The only thing they don't do here is celebrate Christmas on Christmas Day.  Like everyone else in Turkey, I'll be working on that day...and every other leading up to New Year's Day.  We do have New Year's Day off however.  Unlike Canada and the US, there are no winter holidays.  We have January 1st off and then it's business as usual until the end of the 1st semester which is January 25th.  Then we have 2 weeks off for Somestre - or Spring Break.  Then nothing again until the end of the year.  However, we do have 2 other weeks off for Ramadan - because this doesn't follow the Western calendar, the dates change every year.  This year, we had one week in August and one week in October to mark the beginning and the end of the month long holiday.  Next year it should fall in September and November...something to look forward to!
 
 

Our English Department Tree!
 



Monday, November 26, 2012

A Day in My Life...

It has now been just over 7 weeks that I've been working at my new school.  I mentioned before that I am the English Coordinator at a private primary school - Yükselen Kolej.

The front of A Blok
 

What does being an English Coordinator mean?  To tell you the truth, we're still trying to figure that out here as well!  Essentially, I am overseeing 16 English teachers (none of whom are native English speakers) and 2 Heads of Department.  My responsibilities include teacher training and management, curriculum creation and management, and teaching English.  All of this is rather overwhelming considering I've been an ESL Teacher for all of 1 year!  Fortunately, my previous career in management has paid off alot (thanks again Enterprise!!). And fortunately the book publisher from whom we bought our curriculum books offers me and the school extra support in the form of two other natives.  Gabrielle comes to the school a couple times a month and generally helps out with book problems.  Sometimes she'll observe a class and offer some ideas and feedback and sometimes she'll come with me to my conversation class and help out (she's Australian so it's good for the kids to hear her accent).  Then there's Kate - a British ex-pat who lives in İstanbul.  She's supposed to come every month to do training seminars for the teachers but she's yet to come...But they do help me when I fumble so I can't complain too much!

The school itself is divided into two blocks.  A Blok is the lower primary building which houses kindergarten through to fourth grade.  There is a canteen and cafeteria, music room, art room, computer room, and gymnasium.  B Blok is the newest addition.  It houses fifth through to 8th grades and has all the same facilities (albeit more modern!).   I tend to spend my days in B Blok because it's nicer and has better washrooms!

The corner where I wait for my bus!


A typical day in my life is as follows:

- wake up at 6:45am
- get ready and to catch my servis bus (it never comes at the same time each day!) at around 7:45am
- arrive at the school at 8:55am (yup, it's a loooong way to school...)
- go and grab a simit from the canteen and make myself some Nescafe (it's my new Tim Hortens)
- do some file updating
- observe teachers in their classes and offer feedback (usually I observe anywhere from 1 to 4 teachers per day) - I watch their classes and check to see if they're following the curriculum that was set out at the beginning of the year, if they are using the books and materials effectively, and how they manage their classrooms 
- help teachers with pronunciation or activity planning
- plan my own classes (I teach 2nd grade on Tuesdays and Wednesday - just 15 minutes and usually just a fun production activity, and 4th grade Newcomers on Wednesday (same idea), then I also have a conversation club for 5th-6th grade on Tuesday nights and for 7th grade on Wednesday nights, plus my ESL for Teachers for 2 1/2 hours on Wednesdays after school - all told I teach about 10 hours per week)
- because it is near to impossible to make an appointment with anyone ever, I have random meetings with the owner of the school, the two department heads, and the principal whenever they are free - generally we discuss the progress of the teachers (where they are successful and where they struggle), and how we can improve the program
- at 4:55pm everyday (except on Wednesday where I stay untıl 8pm and on Thursday when I leave at 1pm) I get on my servis bus for the 1 1/2 hour drive home

My Turkish school bus...not like what we're used to back home!

The buses dropping off the kids
 

It's not as easy as Wall Street was (now that was a cushy job!!) but it's rewarding to see my teachers develop and feel more confident with English and as teachers.  I still have the opportunity to help people learn and that's just as good for me!  Every day is different which is also great. And I have evenings and weekends to myself which is another big plus! 

Just life as usual in the grand adventure of being me!

Monday, November 12, 2012

Some Light Reading for you...

There's always a lot of interesting things happening in the political arena here in Turkey.  It's so hard to determine fact from fiction because all the media outlets are controlled by the government - there is no press freedom.  So, I try to read from a lot of different sources and make up my own mind.  Sometimes the sources are so contradictory it's difficult to determine where the story starts...here are just a few of the articles I've read recently...see what you think...

Who is Turkey's Prime Minister?  
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/2270642.stm
http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/oct/24/recep-tayyip-erdogan-turkey

Did you know that some 700+ people have been on a hunger strike for over 60 days? If this happened in Canada, would we react the same way?
http://mideast.foreignpolicy.com/posts/2012/11/06/kurdish_hunger_strike_pushes_turkey_toward_the_tipping_point
http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/nov/08/erdogan-kurdish-hunger-strikers?INTCMP=ILCNETTXT3487
http://www.armenianweekly.com/2012/10/31/the-hunger-strikes-in-turkey-using-ones-body-as-a-means-of-communication/
http://www.aljazeera.com/news/europe/2012/11/2012111255711767550.html


Turkey is free democratic country.  If you think otherwise...
http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/greenslade/2012/oct/23/press-freedom-turkey


Life as Usual...

"Here comes the sun...do do do do...Here comes th..." fumble fumble SLAP!

And so starts my new morning routine - waking up at 6:45am each morning to go to my new job waaaay out in Cubuk (for my Canadian friends, that's like living in Mississaugua and working in Toronto only without the traffic jams).  The commute to my new school takes about 1 hour.  Sometimes a little longer if we have to stop for fuel on the way.  Kinda strange that.  Even the intercity buses feel no compunction about stopping at a service station with a full load of passengers to re-fuel...takes some getting used to.

So, let me tell you a bit more about my school. The school I now work at is called Yukselen Kolej.  It's a K-8 private school.  Although 'kolej' translates to college in English, it really denotes private school.  There is nothing more special about this school than any of the state schools (ie. public schools) other than the fact that most classes are small (22 to 24 students) and that they have foreign language education (state school starts in grade 9 whereas we start in kindergarten). Another difference is that our kids at the kolej are spoiled and without discipline.  We have 6 classes of "newcomers" (those that studied at different schools the previous year whether state or private) - and you can really tell the difference between a newcomer class and the returnee's class.  The newcomers are eager to learn, polite, and respectful.  My colleagues say this will last only this year and then they too will develop that dreaded "chip on the shoulder".  So, enjoy it while it lasts they advise...

The school itself is fairly large by Ankara standards.  We have 2 big buildings each with 4 floors.  B Blok is brand new and just opened this year - it is for the Upper Primary kids (5-8), A Blok is the older building and it houses the K-4 kids.  Each building has it own cafeteria and canteen.  The food is catered by an outside company is refreshingly delicious and healthy.  We also have an outdoor swimming pool and large playground as well as a covered gym for football, basketball and volleyball complete with bleachers for fans!  We can have all these facilities because we are so far from the city centre so we have a lot of space.  To be honest we are in the middle of farmland.  Real farmland.  Complete with cows and their related smells...

The students and teachers are bused to school with our own private servis company.  Instead of the big yellow school buses we are all used to, Turkey has little white mini-buses that seat anywhere from 16 to 24 kids.  These little mini-buses are much easier to maneuver in the narrow twisty streets of the city centre.  We have a fleet of 50 minibuses for our kids.  They start collecting kids at 7:30am and we are usually all at the school by 9am.  At night, all the buses leave at 5pm.  Each day there is a servis that goes near the downtown area which leaves at 1pm - so when I have my half day, I can get home by 2ish!  The servis drivers are all really well dressed too - I don't remember my bus driver back in high school ever wearing a suit and tie to drive but that's the norm here!

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Moving with a Pet...

I have moved over 10 times - 6 times with my cat.  You could say that we are pretty seasoned movers!  However, this newest move in my series of moves might prove a little tricky! How do you take a cat to Turkey??

In the midst of the my anxiety about going back to Turkey, one happy thing I am focusing on right now is that my cat is coming back with me!  I thought this would be fairly straight-forward, but anyone who knows Turkey knows that nothing is ever easy there!!

Before I came back to Canada, I started researching what I needed.  Most websites about pet relocation had conflicting information.  Not a great start.  Some said one set of documents was needed, other said a different type of document was needed...one said definitely microchip and another said no microchips needed...and no where (even on the Turkish Government's website!!) did anyone specify exactly what I needed to do.  How frustrating!!!  I even called the Turkish Consulate in Toronto and then the Turkish Embassy in Ottawa and was told two different things...an ominous beginning maybe?

When I arrived home in Canada, I called a vet that was referred by a friend and they were able to tell me exactly what was needed!  So, shout out to the ladies at Cambrian Animal Hospital in Sudbury!!  Unfortunately, they weren't able to provide the services there, but at least I was now armed with the info I needed!

Anyone who is looking to move to a foreign country - the first thing you should do is go to the Canadian Food Inspection Agency's website.  They have a comprehensive list of what is needed for each country.  They also recommend that you call the consulate of the country you are moving to to verify any information (depending on which country you are moving to this may or may not be helpful!).  To move to Turkey, I needed to have an International Health Certificate and all vaccination certificates.  You can print out the International Health Certificate on 8 1/2 x 14 legal size paper from the CFIA's website, then bring it to your vet to be filled out.  Then you need to mail or deliver it to your closest CFIA office (Sudbury's is in North Bay).  The official veterinarian signs and stamps it and then sends it back to you (in the enclosed self-addressed envelope of course!).  This process takes about a week (if you use priority post).  The lovely folks at Baxter Animal Hospital were really helpful in filling out the forms and getting the necessary information for me.

Good luck to anyone trying to move with a pet!  It may be difficult but I know it will be rewarding!

Minx - the soon to be international travelling cat!

Here's the link to the Export page of the CFIA's website - 

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Sad Day...

Well, in 5 days I'm heading back to Turkey...my visit in Canada will be at an end.  

It's kind of bittersweet.  

I'm really looking forward to going back but at the same time, preparing to go is really difficult.  

This past weekend I emptied out the storage locker I had been renting for the last year.  I sold all my furniture and gave away tons of clothes, shoes, and small items.  I loaded up a big cargo van (thanks Enterprise!) and carted the rest of my stuff to my dad's place.  Yesterday, he and I went through the remaining boxes and gave away even more stuff.  Today, I went to see a guy who wants to buy my car.  We'll be doing that trade off on Friday afternoon.  Doing all this is a relief (less things to pay for while I'm away) but also really saddening.  I feel like my life in Canada is ending.  Even though I know in my head that I will be back here in a year, it doesn't feel like this is my home anymore.  My poor head is so mixed up!!


bye bye car....







Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Long Time...

Wow...so it's been two months since I've last written here....Sorry to those who actually read this!  Let me start with the same lame excuse that everyone seems to use - I've been sooooo busy!!  This is actually the truth though...

Since I've last written here, I left Wall Street and started a new position and presently I'm back in Canada (just for a visit though!).  I'm heading back to Turkey in less than a week and I've got mixed feelings about that...anywho, first things first - Wall Street.

So, I left my position as Service Manager for WSI in August.  Not with any hard feelings though. I still highly recommend this institute for anyone thinking of moving to Turkey or to any other country with a WSI location.  It's a fantastic school for those just starting out in the ESL teaching world and I enjoyed working there immensely.  Through this institute I've met so many interesting students and fellow teachers - and also the love of my life!  So it was with some trepidation that I set out to follow a new path.  

When I get back to Ankara, I'll be working as an English Coordinator for a private school.  I'll mostly be managing 16 other English teachers and not really do much teaching.  I feel more comfortable in a management position, so we'll see how this new job fits me.  However, the school has some pretty high expectations about their English program and I feel some pressure about reaching their set goals.  It's always scary to leave a cushy job to try something you've never done before but it's exciting and that's what I'm looking for!

Before I left for Canada, I had an opportunity to meet all my teachers and staff and I'm super excited to get back and get into the swing of things there!  I'm also interested to see what it's like working in the private education system in Turkey.  Should be interesting to say the least!  I'll keep you posted on that!

So, presently I'm in Canada at my parents home in Northern Ontario.  It's been so great to see my family and friends - and it almost feels like I haven't been gone for an entire year!

Coming back, I've noticed many things...here's a short list:

- people follow traffic rules here and get angry if you don't!
- things are expensive!!!  yikes! food, clothes, everything that I thought was reasonably priced before I left seems to have shot up in price!!!
- I really missed the changing of the leaves in fall and I'm so happy I was here to experience it!
- you have to pick up your own garbage at a restaurant - in Turkey, you just leave your tray or garbage on the table and someone comes by to pick it up.  As a result, the restaurants are always very clean - the ones here have ketchup on the tables and litter on the floor...
- TV commercials are ANNOYING!  In Turkey, you don't have nearly as many commercials, and they are generally concentrated at the end of the program  instead of every 5 minutes as in Canada
- North Americans eat a lot of prepared foods
- gas is cheap!
- customer service is 100% better in Canada
- there is a lack of outdoor seating areas at cafes and restaurants
- you can't smoke in public places here!  I really miss that!  Smoking inside still happens in Turkey - yuck!!!
- life feels like it stood still here - everyone and everything is pretty much the same as when I left.  That feels somewhat disappointing...

These are just some of the things I've been noticing here. 

Earlier I said I had some mixed feelings about going back to Turkey.  I'm mostly worried about how I will re-adjust to my 'normal' life back there.  When I went 1 year ago, I wasn't homesick at all.  Everything was really new and exciting so I didn't really have time to be homesick.  Only when there were a few weeks left before leaving for Canada did I get a wave of homesickness.  I'm worried that this time I'll feel that right away.  I'm not going back to something new and exciting - it will be life as usual when I return.  So, what will that feel like?  Sometimes I wonder if it will be a relief to get back there.  But then I wonder if it'll be the same as last year - I'm going back to the same home, yes, but I'm also going back to a new job with a new schedule and a new expectation...so maybe I'll be too busy once again to notice where I am and who's missing in my life.  Also, it'll be different because U will be there to welcome me back and we can get back to our normal lives with our friends and routines so maybe that will cut the feelings of homesickness as well.  I guess only time will tell!

Sunday, July 22, 2012

Rising Gun Violence - Back Home...

So over the last couple days I've read alot of news articles about the happenings in the US and Canada...and it made me thankful that I'm over here - where it's safe!

Here are some headlines:

Toronto Gun Violence As Politicians Debate Solutions (CBC News) - over the last couple of months, there have been an unusally large number of shootings in very public places (the Eaton Centre, street parties, etc)

Police Hunt for Two Suspects Near French River (The Sudbury Star) - two men were standing on the side of the highway near a popular rest stop shooting at moving traffic

'Dark Knight Rises' Screening Shotting in Suburban Denver Leaves 12 Dead, 58 Injured (NY Daily News) - a young man threw a tear gas cannister into a crowded movie theatre and started shooting at the crowd

Canadian Cities Largely Safe but Rising Gun Violence 'Disturbing' (CBC News)
We Live With Guns So We Live with Deaths (The Sudbury Star)
Toronto's Gun Violence Reaches a New Low (The Globe and Mail)
Timeline: A History of Gun Violence in Canada and the US (The Globe and Mail)

Why are guns and violence increasing in North America?  Who knows for certain.  Some speculate that is has to do with increasing immigrant populations bringing their gang cultures to Canada and the US.  Others think that the youth are bored and need more social programs.  Whatever the reasons are, it is a disturbing trend to see so close to my hometown.  And it makes me glad not to be a part of it.  The randomness and the frequency of these occurances are unnerving.  Do you feel safe?

I wonder what motivates these people towards this kind of violence.  Do they not realize how good they have it?  They live in the free-est nations in the world.  What more do they want?  What are they trying to prove with this violence?  At least here, where there is violence in the Eastern parts of the country, people are fighting for something.  For the right to use their native language.  For the right to have freedom of speech.  For the right to be free in this 'democratic, secular society'.  While violence rages there with shootings and bombings, at least the attacks are localized and do not involve (for the most part) children and civilians.  They are directed at the present government. There are large political rallies all the time here in the national capital of Turkey, people group together all the time to protest education reforms, political reforms, you name it - always in the central downtown region, close to the central subway system and my path to work - but I have never once felt unsafe.

Thursday, July 19, 2012

Local Business Shout Out!!


       
          THE SHOOTING STAR in Kapadokya, Turkey



While my bestie C was here, we ventured to Kapadokya and stumbled upon this fun new jewelry store owned and operated by a lovely woman from Paris, France named Léonie.  Léonie had visited Turkey, and Kapadokya in particular, and like most people immediately fell in love with Göreme in Kapadokya.  After some consideration she made the big move from France and opened her jewelery boutique.  Her specialties include meteorite and gemstone jewelry but she also does lovely whimsical hot-air balloon earrings and necklaces, feather earrings, and butterfly necklaces - most of these include a signature shooting star charm as well! As a bonus - if there was something you wanted that you didn't see, the proprietor was happy to make a special order for you while you wait!  I have always been partial to bracelets and when I didn't see a hot-air balloon bracelet, Léonie made one to order right on the spot!!  Such amazing service!

For more information, you can email the shop directly:

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Safety - Part 2

I have spoken before about the terrorism that has plagued Turkey for the last 30 years....these terrorists are mostly centred in the eastern part of the country.  They rarely venture over the Western side...or maybe they do, and we just don't hear about it. I'm not too sure...but the point is, that in the 11 months that I've been here, I haven't felt a threat from the terrorism personally.  While we hear about the attacks on governmental buildings and such in the eastern areas (Kayseri, Diyarbakir, Çukurca, Siirt, and Adana among others) - some of the ones that happen in the western parts of Turkey are less publicized (car bombs in Ankara, Antalya, and Kemer and a highjacked ferry near Istanbul).  All of these acts occurred near military facilities and are generally in areas that are not frequented by tourists or the general public.  However, some happen in areas that are frequented by Turkish citizens.  Since I've been here, there was one bombing early in the morning across the park from our language centre...3 civilians were killed and 30 were injured by the car bomb.  This has been my closest experience with terrorism - although, lucky for me, I was at home at the time of the incident.  Despite this, I can still say with complete honesty that I haven't felt afraid since coming here.

I said yesterday that I use the subway, trains, buses, airplanes (for international and domestic flights), rental cars, and any other type of transportation you can think of (except camels...Turkey doesn't have camels contrary to popular belief) on a daily and monthly basis.  Acts of terrorism don't ever cross my mind when I travel - even as I travel to the eastern parts of Turkey where these incidents are more likely to happen.  The reason for this is simple:  why should I ruin my experience of this country with thoughts of "what if"?  If I wanted to play that game, I could have saved alot of money by staying home and hiding in my house.  That's just my humble opinion....

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Is Turkey Safe? Part 1...

Hello friends!  Once again I must apologize for neglecting to keep up with my stories...I was chastized by my father for not keeping him up to date - and you know it's bad when HE notices (as he claims not to be interested in this blog!).

Life has been hectic recently...I was host to not one but two friends from Canada in the last 3 weeks - my bestie C and the younger sister of another high school friend.  Both came here for different reasons, and both were surprised at what they found here.  One was expecting to ride around in old minibuses with chicken and sheep as travelling companions while the other was expecting terrorism and instability within the country.  Needless to say, both expectations weren't met!

I have been living in Ankara for almost a year now.  I have never felt insecure or that my life was in danger.  I have travelled around a lot of the country (by train, plane, bus and car) and have always felt safe.  I have rented cars and driven around the countryside and felt safe.  I have ridden the city bus, the minibus, taxis and trains in numerous cities, both big and small, as a woman alone and have never had a moment of fear.  Maybe I've been really lucky...or maybe everything you think you know about a country has a colored perspective.

When I first arrived here, I turned to my fellow female colleagues for advice about travelling as a woman alone.  All of them (Americans in case you're interested) said that they always felt uncomfortable and unsafe walking at night and travelling on the subway system.  I took this with a grain of salt because these women were some what naive and unseasoned travellers.  It is my belief that if you use common sense, you won't get yourself embroiled into unwanted situations.  And if you do become embroiled into an unwanted situation - know how to get out of it!

Let me tell you about a day in my life...for the last 11 months I have been using the city bus system and the subway system to get back and forth from work.  I leave from my home at about 1 or 2 in the afternoon - either walking down to the subway (about a 15 minute walk) or by bus if it's too hot or too cold to walk.  Then I take the subway to a very industrial part of the city that has a high population of male workers.  The language centre that I work at is located here and it is this population that makes up the majority of our student base (90% male).  At the end of my work day, 9:30pm, I walk the 200m to the subway stop and wait with all the men going home.  At my stop, I get off the subway and again either take the bus or walk (in the dark!) to home.  In all the months I have been doing this, I have never once been made to feel uncomfortable by a male student or passenger although my American colleagues say that when they would come out to this industrial area they were constantly harrassed and ogled by these same men.  I don't know if this was a result of miscommunication (or a relationship gone wrong in at least one instance) or what, but perhaps my insight and experience with the Turkish culture makes it easier for me to interpret what Turkish men are on about. 

In general, women are very respected by Turkish men unless they receive a signal that the woman is open to other things - sound familiar??  Yup - Turkish men think the same as North American men - shocking!...only they do it in a different language! 

There is a conception here that foreign women are "easy" - and if you fit this bill, then by all means, you can feast at the "tall dark and handsome" buffet that will be spread before you!  But if this isn't you - then maintain an air of self-confidence, keep your conversations friendly but not suggestive, and be sensitive to the culture in terms of what you wear (ie - keep the ladies covered!).  Now - I wear tanks, shorts, tube tops and all the rest of the traditional Western summer uniform so don't get the wrong idea that everyone keeps everything covered all the time!  Just be cautious about what kind of skin you're showing! 

Another thing to keep in mind is to be smart!  Don't walk alone in the dangerous parts of town - don't get into a stranger's car - don't accept invitations from strange men even if they're super cute - keep a cell phone on you that is charged and on - memorize the emergency numbers - don't wave around money and expensive things (iPad, camera, etc) at night or when you're walking alone - in short, don't put yourself in a situation that could potentially go wrong!  Do these rules sound familiar?  They should!  These are commen sense things to remember no matter where you live!  Keep your wits about you and you will never have a problem.

In my humble opinion, doing all these will help you feel more secure about being in a foreign country as a woman alone.  If you still feel insecure - well, then there's always the buddy system!

Friday, June 15, 2012

Skiing in Turkey

Today it is 40C in Ankara...this is far too hot for me...

Coming from Canada, winter is one of my favorite seasons.  And when the weather is this hot, I like to think about the cold and snow...and with snow, my favorite sports...
Especially, I love skiing! 
Many of my friends wondered what I would do when I moved to Turkey in order to replace my beloved sport.  Oil wrestling (the national sport)?  Camel racing?  Football?  Well, friends, the answer is this – I didn’t have to give up my favorite sport!  It turns out that there are many people here who love to ski and there are many places for us to practice our wonderful hobby!
I want to introduce you to another unknown gem off the beaten track in Turkey – Sarıkamış. 
Sarıkamış is in the Eastern Anatolian region of Turkey.  It is rather easy to travel there because of cheap cost of transportation – a return flight was the equivalent of $90CAD.  The flight is about an hour and half.  You can drive there as well – but, it takes about 12 hours through the mountains.
 Sarıkamış was part of the Russian empire for most of its history, but is now within Turkey’s borders.  The architecture reflects the Russian influence.  Its claim to fame is a hunting lodge that used to belong to Czar Nicholas and a sprawling yellow pine forest (from which the town takes its name) that was planted in honor of Catherine the Great.  Sarıkamış is also historically significant in military terms – during the Battle of Caucasus in World War I, between 60 to 80 000 Ottoman soldiers froze to death in its forests.   This was the biggest loss ever suffered by the Ottoman army.
Despite this somewhat grisly history, the forests of Sarıkamış are vast and proud.  They provide the perfect backdrop for one of Turkey’s premier ski areas – now, you West Coast ski aficionados, think East Coast premier, not Rocky Mountain premier!  Sarıkamış does however have snow that rivals anything I’ve skied in Western Canada – champagne powder as we call it back home!  And it is also the home to one of Turkey’s longest pistes, measuring in at 7 kms.  The best part of skiing here was that most Turkish people prefer skiing on-piste so the snow in the trees was deep and untracked!  Blissful!


Some 80 kms from Sarıkamış, at the end of the last highway in Turkey (literally, the highway comes to a dead end here), on the Turkish-Armenian border, sit the ruins of the medieval city of Ani – another fascinating historical area not often visited (even by the Turks!).
 Ani had a very colored and storied history.  In its heyday, it rivaled Istanbul and Baghdad as the centre of Middle East.  It was sacked and conquered time and again.  It started as an Armenian stronghold, and then it was surrendered to the Byzantines.  After a time, the Seljuk Turks conquered the city and sold it to a Kurdish dynasty.  The Kurds lost it to some Georgians who gave it back and forth to the Kurds for a few years.  The Armenians won it back but then lost it to the Mongols.  Eventually, the Ottoman Turks won control of the city, and it stayed that way for several hundred years.  In the 18th century, the city was abandoned completely for reasons not quite known.  The city started to decay and nearby villagers started to pillage stones and other materials to use for their own farms and buildings.  The army used the ruins for target practice and several earthquakes further devastated the area.  Because of its proximity to the Armenian border, up until 2004, photography of this area was strictly forbidden and you needed governmental permission to visit the area – you could say that tourism was not really encouraged.  Now, the Turkish government in collaboration with UNESCO is doing its best to rehabilitate the ruins and rebuild tourism in the region.  In fact, some of the money collected for admission is used towards restoration and conservation.  I recommend visiting Ani if you are interested in medieval churches and Gothic architecture.  Some of the best examples I have ever seen exist in this region.





So for you skiers out there who have a hankering for some history with your sports fix, check out this hidden gem in Eastern Anatolia – you will not be disappointed with the snow or the scenery!

Canada - We Help You In Your Time of Need! Or not....

So, today I went with U (my bf) to the Canadian Embassy here in Ankara to ask a few questions about his visa application...

First let me preface this with saying that if you are a Turkish citizen you pretty much can't leave the country - ever - without permission so it makes spontaneous travel next to impossible...In a country of 78 million people with an unemployment rate of 10% (this is the number the government shows us, but I think it's much higher based on what I've seen) every country out there wants to make sure these nice Turkish people are only visiting and not planning on staying long term!

Anyways, I am planning a trip home in September for a month and I really want U to come and meet my friends and family and see what Canada is all about.  No problem, I thought!  Let's look online and find a nice cheap ticket home!  Not so U tells me...I need a visa first!  The visa application to visit Canada is very intensive.  You have to fill in all kinds of personal information, family information, provide proof of a job and income, show proof that your employer knows you are leaving and coming back, show that you are in good health, and basically show that you are a good upstanding citizen that will come back to your country when your trip is over...All of this is really complicated and comes in several forms and appendices.  I tried calling the 800# on the website where I downloaded all these forms and information packages and quidelines for the application from but it is an endless loop of "press 1 for this, etc"...there is no way to speak to a live person.  So we decided to see if we could get some questions answered at the Embassy and have some clarification.  In Ottawa, I know that you can pretty much walk up to any Embassy and ask for help at the gate and they will direct you to a real live person...I've done it with the Turkish and Italian embassies...However, it's apparently quite different in a foreign country.

The nice security guard at the gate (who spoke surprisingly good english) very nicely told us that no one can go inside.  Ever  They don't even take appointments.  I asked what how we can find answers to our questions.  Then I asked what to do when the application is finally completed.  And finally, I asked what I could do if I had an emergency situation and needed the help of my country.  His response to all these questions:

"Check the website" as he pointed to a typed out memo taped to his glass cage...

Freakin' awesome.  It's so comforting to know that I have the help and support of my country as I live here in Turkey...don't worry family!  I'm sure nothing bad will happen...

Now...to figure out how to fill in these forms...yippee...

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Off the Beaten Track

For lack of anything else interesting to say at the moment I have copy and pasted a little essay about Turkey that I sent to the fine folks at the TEFL Institute in an attempt to make Turkey a more popular teaching destination...As I've mentioned before, most people think only of Istanbul when they think about Turkey - here are a few snippets about places that I've visited since coming here that are far more interesting than Istanbul in my opinion:
"You’re moving where???"
That was the common refrain when I informed my friends and family about my decision to teach in a foreign country.
“Yes.  Turkey.  I’m moving to Ankara, the capital city” was my response. 
The next most common refrain was, “Wait a minute, isn’t Istanbul the capital city??”
And so, the last few weeks preparing for my big adventure included not only fitting the entire contents of my life into 23kg of allowable weight but also telling people a little bit about this wonderful country and its people.
Alright – so here are some basic facts:  the actual name of the country is the Republic of Turkey.  The spoken language is Turkish.  It’s a fairly young country; founded in 1923 by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, but it has a rich history going back many thousands of years.  The main religion is Islam.  It’s a democratic and secular country (well, kind of) with a population of approximately 74 million.  It is the 37th largest country in the world in terms of land size (when you compare this to Canada which is the 2nd largest country in the world with a population of only 34 million it’s a little bit mind boggling!!).
Flag of Turkey.svgTo the left is the Turkish flag - it bears the cresent moon and star which comes from the Ottoman Empire.  It was adopted in 1844.  During the Ottoman times, there were many flags with several variations of the moon and star combo - green flags symbolized religious institutions and red ones secular institutions.   
So now that the boring stuff is out of the way, let me tell you about places that are NOT Istanbul.  Don’t get me wrong, Istanbul is an amazing and wonderful city, but everyone goes there!  I want to tell you about a few places in Turkey that are off the beaten track.
One of the most interesting places I’ve visited so far is Şanlıurfa (or Urfa for short) in the southeastern part of Turkey.   The history of this intriguing city goes back to about the 4th century BC – however, there have been archeological discoveries dating back to 9000BC!  This city is reportedly the birth place of the Prophet Abraham and also Job.  Balıklıgöl, or Lake of Fish, is a serene and beautiful place of worship built in the 1100s AD.  Legend says that when Abraham was being persecuted, his arch nemesis Nimrod threw him to his death into a pool of fire.  Only, the flames turned into water and the wood into fish and Abraham survived.   The mosque and pool are built on the site where this event supposedly happened and the fish that live inthis pool today are considered to be ancestors of these original fish.  Local legend also says that eating these fish will cause blindness.






Close by to Urfa is a small village called Harran.  This is the only place on Earth where you can still see original ‘bee hive’ style houses.  Although not really used for daily life they still dominate the landscape.  They are designed to keep the warmth in during the cold desert nights and to keep cool during the hot, dry, desert days (although, when I visited in December, and slept in one of these bee hives, there was a distinct lack of heat...).  Harran is also the site of Islam’s first university.  Built in the 8th or 9th century, it was a centre for translation, astronomy (the astronomy tower still stands today), and medicine.  One of the pivotal battles during the Crusades was also fought in Harran.

Traditional Eastern Turkish dinner

University's Astronomy tower...
unfortunately due to ongoing
excavations of this site we couldn't get any closer...
Traditional Beehive houses - only exist in Harran today

Moving further west, there is a village called Kayaköy near the city of Fethiye, which was completely abandoned after 1923.  The history of this village dates back to the 4th century BC.  It was built on the site of the Lycian city Karmylassos and was populated by Greek Christians.  After 1923, these Christians were forced out of their homes and back to Greece during a “population exchange” (this was a nice way to say deportation of Greek Christians).  The city today is protected by the Turkish Government and UNESCO as a historical site.





Olüdeniz - the most photographed beach in Europe!

By far the most interesting place in Turkey is Kapadokya – the Land of Fairy Chimneys.  This place is so unreal you feel like you are on another planet when you arrive.  After miles of flatness on the drive from Ankara, you start to see some undulating hills and valleys, and then as you turn a final corner, you are greeted by spectacular natural fairy chimneys.  These chimneys are actually a result of volcanic ash covered by basalt.  They are a spectacular natural wonder, however, what makes them even more interesting here in Kapadokya is that they were hollowed out and used as homes and churches.  Göreme National Park is another UNESCO World Heritage Site and is definitely worth exploring!






So, you can see, there is definitely more to this amazing country – especially if you take a walk off the beaten track.

Sunday, June 3, 2012

The Land of Apricots and Democracy?


This past weekend I ventured back to Eastern Turkey with my colleague and travel companion, H.  On a previous trip out east, H had wanted to visit Mount Nemrut but we just couldn't seem to fit it into our schedule (it's fairly out of the way) so we made plans to visit the area again.  This time through a different airport - Malatya.  Malatya is in central Eastern Turkey.  It has a hot and dry climate.  And it is the epicenter of the apricot industry in Turkey!  At every corner you can find one apricot related product or another.  And so far, Malatya has had the friendliest people out of every city I've previously visited!  We had such a great weekend that I almost didn't want to come back to Ankara!!

I don't usually do plugs for businesses and such, but the service we experienced during all points of our trip definitely merits a shout out to all those involved!  Also, this part of Turkey is a must to experience!  The people are warm, the landscape is lush and green, and there is history to be found at every turn...

Now for the shout outs!  Firstly, Mustafa and his staff at the Malatya Palace Hotel in central Malatya - THANK YOU!  From our midnight airport shuttle into town to having our own personal guides to the tourist attractions, you can see that customer service is foremost for this hotel!  They are so overwhelmingly helpful that H thought they were too helpful - almost annoyingly so!  But, better that than the opposite I think...

Because of H's inability to plan in advance, we were slightly stuck on how to actually get to Mount Nemrut on the Sunday...luckily Mustafa and his family were breakfasting at the same time as us and he was able to hook us up with a semi-private tour up the mountain with a guide named Ramazan.  For only 100tl (or about $60CAD) we had accomodation, private car up the mountain, supper, breakfast, and a sunset/sunrise excursion up to the Nemrut site!  What a deal!!  A better bargain was meeting David and Cecilia (a married couple from North Carolina) who turned out to be quite a hoot!  Made our adventure even more enjoyable!

The second shout out is to Ramazan - our friendly, knowledgable and bilingual tour guide!  He took us up to Nemrut in his personal vehicle and provided a non-stop commentary for the two hour drive!  The roads up the mountain are twisty and narrow, but we all felt very safe thanks to his driving skills!  He says that since he makes the trip so often, his car knows the way - he doesn't even have to look at the road!  Thankfully, this time he was paying attention because as per the Turkish norm, there are no safety barriers preventing us from plummeting down the side of the mountain in the event of a mis-turn....

About two kilometres from the Nemrut site is a guest house called the Güneş Otel (Sunshine Hotel) - Husseyin and his wonderful staff made our stay here quite comfortable.  Now, this is the only accomodation on this side of the mountain and it is very quaint.  There is hot water, the beds are clean, and the toilets flush.  If you are expecting anything more, don't stay here!  But if you can rough it for the night, Husseyin's tavla ability and jokes make it worth while!  Also, witnessing the sunset and sunrise at the top of this strange and historical place is doubly worth your while!

After our sojourn at the top of the mountain, we came back down to Malatya and the Palace Hotel.  We napped for the afternoon (waking up at 4am does not agree with me...) and made plans to meet up with David and Cecila for dinner.  Before dinner, H and I went to explore Arslanstepe (or Lion's Hill) where some Italian archeologists have been excavating about 5000 years worth of civilizations.  This is an artificial mound as all the civilizations kind of built their towns on top of each other.  This area is also thought to be the heart of the Fertile Cresent (birthplace of civilization and therefore the state and democracy).  The security guard (Eren) spoke some broken English, but between us, we were able to hash out a good idea of the different civilizations and the finds of the archeologists.  The best finds are displayed at the Malatya Museum but with our travellers luck, the museum is closed on Mondays.  Eren made a phone call to another security guard who works there - and although he couldn't get us into the museum for a private tour, he was able to get us a tour of the outside gardens!  After that he recommended we sample a local specialty at the Malatya Mutfaği (Kitchen).  Again - the service was stellar!  We were given so much free food that by the end we were ready to bust!!!  It was wonderful!

So, to everyone who made this weekend as wonderful as it was - THANK YOU again!  And for anyone who wants to experience the warmth and culture of this area - GO!!! 

Here are some photos of our wonderful experience:

My room at the Malatya Palace



 
The long and windy road up to Mt. Nemrut

Sheep Crossing!!!

H, as we climbed on some velco-like rocks near the Güneş Otel

Amazing view from the velco rocks


Two way road?? Up to the peak of Nemrut

This is what Nemrut is all about - some emperor over 2000 years ago built himself a monument consisting of several giant sculptures of the Gods and a huge mound of stones (under which his tomb lies although no one has found it yet)

Going up for sunset

The heads at sunset

Tour guide extraordinaire!  Ramazan!

Me at sunrise...

Meanwhile, back in Malatya, apricots are drying


One of the lions from Arslantepe

The greenery of Malatya - there are over 4 million apricot trees in the area!



 


Kagit Kebap (Paper Kebab) a local specialty where meat (in this case lamb) is baked inside a paper covering = DELICIOUS!!
David had never had traditional Turkish Maras ice cream before - it's rather entertaining so I took a little video!